So... I've had some awesome time climbing in my Miuras! I could really tell the HUGE difference between climbing in my evolvs and my miuras. Some that are noteworthy:
1) I have so much more power and precision in my foot work. I'm able to stand on smaller footchips and push off them with confidence
2) I can actually heel hook and know that my heel is going to stick and not slide off (like my evolvs do)
3) The rubber is so sticky! Love the rubber! It is extremely sticky. I can smear really well and I can really edge pretty well too!
4) The lovely heel suction feeling
5) My toes are packed tight but not uncomfortably tight
6) I've got lovely compliments on the design. So much better than the Miura VS womens' tiny weird flowers. That said, the Miura VS is a higher performance shoe than the Miura lace. They are not the same shoe!
Cons? They are simply not as comfortable just because of the technical fit. But that is honestly a small price to pay for all the good things you get in return. I believe that with more climbing, it'll only get more comfortable. The shoe is so snug I don't even have to lace it up.
My street size is 38 and the first pair I ordered were size 37. I couldn't fit in them at all. Not in a, "my foot went in but it's too tight and uncomfortable" but in a "omg! I can't get my feet into the shoe!" Hence, I ordered a size 37.5 and they fit my feet really well. The toe box is well shaped around my toes but my only complain is the heel cup. Weirdly enough, my archilles is still chafed from the slingshot rand even in the 37.5 ( in the 37, it literally just scraps my skin off if i even try to get my feet into the shoe), so that means that it's tight. But there is dead space around my heel. That is my only complaint. However, because the slingshot rand and the suction style design holds my heel in so well, i hardly ever notice that dead space. My heel never slips out. So it really isn't that big of a problem for me.
Chan's Team 5.10- Team Black came in today but they didn't fit him sadly. His street size is 8.5 and we got the shoe in 8.5 just because 5.10 sizes down their shoes for you. They run small in general unlike sportiva shoes. However, even a 8.5 is too small for him. So we had to return those shoes back to rock creek and we found a new deal on moosejaw and got the same design by 5.10 in a size 9.5. Hopefully it fits this time!
Though i have to say, the shoe looks incredibly polished, well built and impressive right from the box. Even though they didn't fit chan, they did fit me in a loose manner, and I can definitely see the high potential in this shoe to be amazing. The arch is amazing, the shape of the toe box is very angled. It looks like an amazing shoe. The 3.5mm Stealth Mystique rubber is soft and bendable. I can definitely see why people say that this shoe is extremely sensitive. If you are a strong climber with a lot of experience, this shoe is definitely meant for you especially if you don't need a stiff shoe. This shoe is not stiff. It's bendable, extremely light weight and just covered with rubber on all sides. I can't wait for the second pair to arrive so that Chan can have a go in them. More on that when we get the shoe!
1) I have so much more power and precision in my foot work. I'm able to stand on smaller footchips and push off them with confidence
2) I can actually heel hook and know that my heel is going to stick and not slide off (like my evolvs do)
3) The rubber is so sticky! Love the rubber! It is extremely sticky. I can smear really well and I can really edge pretty well too!
4) The lovely heel suction feeling
5) My toes are packed tight but not uncomfortably tight
6) I've got lovely compliments on the design. So much better than the Miura VS womens' tiny weird flowers. That said, the Miura VS is a higher performance shoe than the Miura lace. They are not the same shoe!
Cons? They are simply not as comfortable just because of the technical fit. But that is honestly a small price to pay for all the good things you get in return. I believe that with more climbing, it'll only get more comfortable. The shoe is so snug I don't even have to lace it up.
My street size is 38 and the first pair I ordered were size 37. I couldn't fit in them at all. Not in a, "my foot went in but it's too tight and uncomfortable" but in a "omg! I can't get my feet into the shoe!" Hence, I ordered a size 37.5 and they fit my feet really well. The toe box is well shaped around my toes but my only complain is the heel cup. Weirdly enough, my archilles is still chafed from the slingshot rand even in the 37.5 ( in the 37, it literally just scraps my skin off if i even try to get my feet into the shoe), so that means that it's tight. But there is dead space around my heel. That is my only complaint. However, because the slingshot rand and the suction style design holds my heel in so well, i hardly ever notice that dead space. My heel never slips out. So it really isn't that big of a problem for me.
Chan's Team 5.10- Team Black came in today but they didn't fit him sadly. His street size is 8.5 and we got the shoe in 8.5 just because 5.10 sizes down their shoes for you. They run small in general unlike sportiva shoes. However, even a 8.5 is too small for him. So we had to return those shoes back to rock creek and we found a new deal on moosejaw and got the same design by 5.10 in a size 9.5. Hopefully it fits this time!
Though i have to say, the shoe looks incredibly polished, well built and impressive right from the box. Even though they didn't fit chan, they did fit me in a loose manner, and I can definitely see the high potential in this shoe to be amazing. The arch is amazing, the shape of the toe box is very angled. It looks like an amazing shoe. The 3.5mm Stealth Mystique rubber is soft and bendable. I can definitely see why people say that this shoe is extremely sensitive. If you are a strong climber with a lot of experience, this shoe is definitely meant for you especially if you don't need a stiff shoe. This shoe is not stiff. It's bendable, extremely light weight and just covered with rubber on all sides. I can't wait for the second pair to arrive so that Chan can have a go in them. More on that when we get the shoe!